When this dish arrives on the table, I can visualise it in my hands as I run it to the table. Palms sweaty, a dozen things running in my head and a clinging hope there’ll be leftover gyoza to gorge on after the shift. My first and only hospo job was at Wagamama, which thrives beyond expectation here in the UK, struggles in NZ and completely extinct in Aus. My first dish at this restaurant was the dish I ordered on my reunion meal: the chicken katsu curry. Almost identical to the dish of old, with the signature half shell of rice on top of two chicken pieces cut at 45 degree angles. The curry is a bit more milder than I remember and the chicken seems a little less too. Decent flavours but at £10.50 there’s probably more authentic, richer, generous portions elsewhere. Still, Wagamama is framed as a funky venue and never claims to be anything but neo-fusion Asian-inspired cuisine.